Podcast Episode 197: Nick Gislason of Hanabi Lager and Screaming Eagle Wines Admires the Beauty of Grains Through the Canvas of Lager

The maker of some of California’s most coveted wines discusses what drove him back to beer, and to a particular focus on lager as a way to explore the vibrant flavors of barley varieties.

Jamie Bogner Jul 25, 2021 - 5 min read

Podcast Episode 197: Nick Gislason of Hanabi Lager and Screaming Eagle Wines Admires the Beauty of Grains Through the Canvas of Lager Primary Image

Photo of Nick Gislason, ©2021 Suzanne Becker Bronk, @bronkphotography

Subscribe to the Craft Beer & Brewing Podcast:

Hanabi Lager Company’s Nick Gislason has always been a builder, and that same DIY sensibility drives his lager-focused brewery project today. For the past decade, he’s been head winemaker for Screaming Eagle, a small estate winery that makes some of the most coveted wines in California. But before wine, he was a brewer, and Hanabi is his way to stay connected with this parallel passion.

Crossover stories are ripe for criticism—Michael Jordan playing baseball was not the success he might have envisioned—and it’s easy to assume that a winemaker dabbling in the beer world is nothing more than a dilettante. The Hanabi story is different. Years of piloting, years of hand-building a bespoke brewhouse, and an intense focus on the equipment to make the beer set a different background for the Hanabi story.

Notably, Hanabi is a lager brewery. Gislason’s affinity for exploring the flavors of grains led him to focus on lager brewing, as the delicate structure of lager allows for clearer malt expression. Hanabi releases only one beer per quarter, which they brew then patiently lager before releasing as a one-time event. Each beer is an event and an exploration.

In this episode, Gislason discusses this somewhat unique structure and focus, while also touching on:

  • Building the brewhouse from scratch, welding their own vessels, and designing the brewhouse specifically for lager brewing
  • The Hanabi beer development process
  • Brewing with heirloom barley varieties
  • Searching for historical barley to brew with

And more.

Photo: Suzanne Becker Bronk, @bronkphotography

This episode is brought to you by:

G&D
G&D Chillers
Born in the Pacific Northwest from a lot of hard work and singular goal, G&D has become the best damn chiller company in the world. Like you, G&D never settles—they are relentless and strive to be better every single day because they take pride in the work they do. They are craftsmen who know that "good enough" just won’t cut it. Visit G&D Chillers at the CBC, Booth #3011! Or reach out directly at GDChillers.com.

BSG
This episode is brought to you by BSG Hop Solutions. Meet the latest in the BSG Hop solutions portfolio, Citiva. Strong expressions of stone fruit, floral, and resinous/pine flavors and aromas define this blend, crafted specifically for use in hazy IPAs, and other hop-forward beers. Citiva is ideal for aroma, whirlpool, and dry hop additions to Hazy and Juicy IPAs, or for any other hoppy styles where a combination of citrus, tropical fruit, and pine aromatics are desired. Go to bsgcraftbrewing.com to learn more, or call 1-800-374-2739.

Old Orchard logo 200px
A brewery might have 99 problems, but your fruit supplier shouldn't be one. Old Orchard is already known for their quality concentrates, but they also pride themselves on consistent product and reliable supply. When brewers need assistance, Old Orchard is just an email, phone call, or even a text away. Based in Greater Grand Rapids, Michigan—better known as Beer City, USA—Old Orchard is core to the brewing community. To join their fruit family, learn more at www.oldorchard.com/brewer.

Brewmation logo 200px
With nearly 20 years of innovation and experience, Brewmation specializes in electric, steam, and direct fire brew houses, complete cellar solutions, and automated controls for the craft brewing industry. From a half barrel to thirty barrel systems, Brewmation puts you in control to design a brewery that fits your needs and brewing style. Whether you’re starting a new brewery, upgrading your cellar, or just need some parts to keep you up and running, Brewmation has you covered. Visit them at Brewmation.com to get started.

clarion-lubricants-logo-200px
There’s nothing easy about brewing beer. It’s an intricate, time-consuming art. The last thing you need to face is a recall or contamination that can hurt your pride and your pocketbook. Clarion lubricants meet strict purity and performance standards to help make your system 100% food safe. That’s protection for your equipment and your beer. So, make the switch to Clarion, and ensure your system is running smooth and safe. Go to clarionlubricants.com to learn more.

Jamie Bogner is the Cofounder and Editorial Director of Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine®. Email him at [email protected].

ARTICLES FOR YOU