Podcast Episode 406: Dr. Tom Shellhammer and Dr. Ron Beatson Discuss the Impacts of Genetics, Terroir, and Pick Timing on New Zealand Hops

Is it the hop variety that matters most? Or when it’s picked? The soil it’s grown in? How it’s fertilized and irrigated throughout a season? Or something else? These two preeminent researchers—one from the States, one from New Zealand—debate the relative impacts of various factors on hop flavor and aroma.

Jamie Bogner Mar 28, 2025 - 8 min read

Podcast Episode 406: Dr. Tom Shellhammer and Dr. Ron Beatson Discuss the Impacts of Genetics, Terroir, and Pick Timing on New Zealand Hops Primary Image

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Dr. Ron Beatson is the retired hop breeder who built a storied career at Plant & Food Research developing some of the most popular New Zealand hop varieties today, and Dr. Tom Shellhammer is the Oregon State University professor whose research into hop oils, hop terroir, hop-growing techniques, and more have made an indelible impact on the Pacific Northwest hop industry. Shellhammer is currently on a four-month sabbatical in New Zealand, studying the similarities and differences between U.S. and New Zealand hop practices, and presented at both the NZ Hops Harfest event (with Dr. Ron Beatson) and on his own at the Freestyle Hops Hāpi Symposium.

In this episode, we brought the two together to discuss:

  • the hierarchy of impacts from genetics through terroir and agronomics
  • differences in hops within a farm or area versus differences between areas
  • the genesis of onion and garlic notes in hop aromas and flavors
  • sources of inconsistency in a hop variety
  • harvesting dynamics of Nelson Sauvin
  • cover crops in hop fields to promote soil health
  • multiple archetypes for hop varieties
  • the source of “diesel” and “dank” notes in hops and the crossovers with cannabis
  • thiol and terpene interactions in aroma formation over individual oil content
  • impact from lack of disease in New Zealand hop fields
  • soil and localized environmental impacts on New Zealand hop cultivation

And more.

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Taste the modern flavors of Indie Hops at CBC, this year in Indianapolis. Join Indie in Indy for 14 incredible collab beers to showcase Strata, Luminosa, Lórien, Audacia, Meridian, and more! Experience our newest hop, Audacia, in both a Hazy IPA by Fidens and a West Coast IPA by Grains Of Wrath. Dive the depths of Strata in T90, CGX, and HyperBoost forms with IPAs by Craft Coast and Flatland Brewing. Refresh your palate with the crisp summery flavors of Lórien in an Italian Pils by Maui Brewing and a French Pils by Upright Brewing. And bask in the “liquid sunshine” magic of Luminosa with IPAs from Fort George and Baerlic Brewing. Check out the full CBC beer lineup at www.indiehops.com and plan to stop by our booth #3122. We'll be as happy to see you as you’ll be that you made the effort! Indie Hops — Life is short, let’s make it flavorful.

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If you’re launching a brewery or acquiring an existing one, consider our brewery workshop and new brewery accelerator, September 14 through 17 in Fort Collins, Colorado. Over four days, we engage in panel discussions, technical brewery tours, networking, and small working group sessions that help you better understand and prepare for the challenges of brewery operation. Tickets are on sale now. Visit breweryworkshop.com for more information and to secure your spot.

Jamie Bogner is the cofounder and editorial director of Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine®. Email him at jbogner@beerandbrewing.com.

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