Real-lemon-grapefruit nose, complete with flesh, pith, and peel, plus barnyard, grain, and earthy log-cabin floor. Lemon-lime flavors—lively, prickly, light, with a wonderful tart and juicy stripe enmeshed in dusty gauze. Softness of earthy bitterness allows restrained acidity to shine. Balance leans toward funk. Finishes dry, leaving a splintered memory of that acidity, so you have to go back to the well. Convincing.