Aroma: “Mild and beery, with light acidic and spice notes. Some floral esters show through, and the lemon, grapefruit, and peach open up with a hint of salt. Hints of tart and funk, and no hops aroma.”

Flavor: “Surprisingly full body—a little too salty, but blends well with the mineral-water notes. The assertive hops flavor smacks into a pillow of soft sourness, accompanied by pineapple esters and a maltiness that adds a touch of sweetness. Lemon juice and a hint of lime zest play well with the hops notes of pineapple, grapefruit, and tangerine. The finish is dry, which accentuates the tartness a bit.”

Overall: “Enjoyable and satisfyingly rich, interesting and complex. Flavors flow from one to the other without any of them being overpowering or standing out. It’s a substantial, malty take on the style that’s well executed.”