There are few locations outside of Europe with the brewing pedigree of Cincinnati, Ohio. Spread among seven hills along the banks of the Ohio River, the Queen City once had thirty-eight breweries (1872) and in 1890 had more than 1,180 saloons—one for every thirty-seven men. Beer was delivered to many of Cincinnati’s drinking establishments via elaborate underground tunnels to keep the lager fresh and at the appropriate temperature.
Back then, Cincinnati had an enormous German American population, and there are tales of pigs wandering the streets, feasting on spent grain. “Where Pigs Fly” is an oft-used phrase around the charming city, and one can understand why when you sit down to enjoy some of the best German food in the country while your cheeks are warmed by generous glasses of handcrafted ales made with the same pride and patience as the German ancestors had.
There are also tales of mass consumption. As Sarah Steven’s fantastic book, Cincinnati’s Brewing History, records: