Arriving like a balm after a difficult year, the 46th edition of Anchor Brewing’s annual holiday warmer is its darkest and strongest yet. It appears on the watch of a new brewmaster, Tom Riley, who took over in August to become only the fourth there since Fritz Maytag took the helm in 1965.
Anchor always keeps this recipe under wraps, but Riley was willing to discuss some aspects of this year’s formulation. The 2020 Christmas Ale is a robust but balanced porterish brown ale of 7 percent ABV, which—based on my own tasting notes—has an accent of woodsy, juniper-like spicing. That spice is evident in the nose but doesn’t dominate the flavor, which is quite smooth, softly roasted, and drinks well below its strength.
CBB// I think a lot of people realize the Christmas Ale recipe changes every year, but I’m not sure how many of us have a broader sense of how it’s evolved. Please tell us about how the beer has changed over the years.