Like many beginners, I started homebrewing in my kitchen. Now I have a 10-gallon (38-liter) outdoor propane setup, but I miss the convenience of brewing indoors where weather is less of a concern. Electric brewing systems look really attractive, especially when winter blows in, but it’s not just a matter of figuring out how to heat water and boil the wort; ventilation is every bit as important, and it can be a pricey problem to solve.
Before we go any further, I want to lay down some ground rules. While it is possible to set up an indoor brewery using gas burners, it takes some serious planning and engineering to protect yourself from carbon monoxide poisoning. You have to either create a contained combustion/exhaust system or handle some extreme ventilation requirements. So, let’s just focus on electric setups.
Steamy Sessions
During a typical hour-long boil, 1 to 2 gallons (4 to 7 liters) of water are lost to evaporation. That can turn a sealed room into a sauna, with condensation dripping from the walls, ceilings, and windows. While you can wipe down those surfaces, persistent humidity in the room can lead to mold problems, water damage, and—worst of all—infected beer.