Lager isn’t monolithic; it’s manifold, and its history is tied to the history of brewing technology. Each breakthrough in equipment and process and each improvement of beer’s primary ingredients led to new lager styles or to a lager brewery rising in prominence.
The culmination of lager development in North America appeared to reach its apotheosis with the dominance of American adjunct lager. However, after decades of lager-brewing monoculture, lager beers are at long last finding new favor with modern drinkers. Today, craft breweries across the country are making dozens of lager styles, from reverent, Old World classics to new takes on old ideas. There are more American craft breweries dedicated to the production of lager styles than ever before.
“It’s a huge trend,” says Mike Roberts, craft systems facilitator at Cru Brewing Systems in Chilliwack, British Columbia. “I’m seeing a big resurgence in demand for traditional German-style lager beer.” The company designs custom brewhouses and tanks for craft breweries. Five years ago, Roberts says, only a couple of customers each year were interested in lager-brewing capabilities. In 2020, however, he says about 30 percent of his customers were specifically looking for brewhouses tuned for lager brewing.