The old adage that “brewers make wort, yeast makes beer” undersells the role the brewers have in taking care of their microbial coworkers. Brewers don’t just make wort; they also tend, nurture, and cultivate the yeast that’s at the heart of every brewery. And over the past few decades, America’s independent brewers have gotten good at working with yeast—ale yeast at least.
The top-fermenting Saccharomyces cerevisiae strains have long been the most common yeast in craft breweries, and the assertive, round, and fruity character these strains add to beer fit well with the styles and palates that craft brewers have focused on. But what about S. cervisiae’s close cousin: the cold-loving, bottom-dwelling Saccharomyces pastorianus?
Lager has never loomed larger in craft-beer culture; today’s brewers are tackling the challenge of creating these clean, crisp beers despite the fact that (or maybe because) lager brewing is technical and unforgiving. The transparent flavor of the lager yeast strains means there’s less for flaws to hide behind, and deficiencies in a brewer’s process or ingredients stand out on the palate.