Podcast Episode 321: Chris Baum of Varietal is Hyperfocused on Hops

In Sunnyside, Washington, Chris Baum and his team at Varietal Beer enjoy firsthand access to growers and a nuanced understanding of hop quality. In this episode, recorded mid-harvest in the heart of the Yakima Valley, Baum shares his thoughts on brewing hop-forward and fresh-hop beers, and more.

Jamie Bogner Sep 17, 2023 - 7 min read

Podcast Episode 321: Chris Baum of Varietal is Hyperfocused on Hops Primary Image

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When you live and work in the Yakima Valley, hops become a way of life. They’re second nature, omnipresent, and a constant topic of conversation—and if you’re a local brewer, many of your customers are the same folks who grow, process, study, and sell those hops.

As such, hops are central to Varietal Beer, and that focus has picked up momentum as fans flock to their taproom—about 30 minutes south of the city of Yakima—to drink their subtle, nuanced, and beautiful IPAs and fresh-hop beers. The industry has noticed, too, with two recent GABF silver medals in the categories Juicy or Hazy Strong Pale Ale (2021) and Fresh Hop Beer (2022).

In this episode, Baum discusses:

  • designing hoppy beers that aren’t confrontational
  • brewing IPAs with 100 percent craft malt
  • barley varieties that complement certain styles
  • balancing and achieving bitterness and structure in IPA
  • manipulating pH to soften bitterness
  • balancing cryogenic hops with “American Noble” low-alpha varieties
  • the beauty of Comet hops
  • differences in brewing with fresh-kilned hops and T-90 pellets
  • their fresh-hop brewing process

And more.

This episode is brought to you by:

G&D
G&D Chillers
For years G&D Chillers has chilled the beers you love, partnering with 3,000+ breweries across the country. They are proud of the cool partnerships they’ve built over the past 30 years. They know brewing doesn’t stop at 5 o’clock and nor do they. G&D uses quality components, expert craftsmanship and constant innovation. With 24/7 service and support your brewery will never stop. Remote monitor your chiller for simple and fast access to all the information you need – providing you with the peace of mind your operation is running smoothly. Reach out for a quote today at gdchillers.com or call to discuss your next project.

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Sponsored by BSG and their partners HVG, who bring you the very best in German hops. Including Amira, the latest from their hop Breeding Program. With its classic hoppy, slightly herbal, and zesty lemon aromas it’s the ideal hop for those looking to capture the traditional flavor of a classic German lager. Visit BSGCraftbrewing.com to learn more.

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If you hear Old Orchard mentioned in the brewing community, don't be surprised: the flavored craft juice concentrate blends from Old Orchard have shipped to over 46 states. Their new brewing customers often mention discovering Old Orchard through the word-of-mouth recommendation of another brewer. To join the core of Old Orchard's brewing community, learn more at oldorchard.com/brewer.


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ABS Commercial has been a full-service brewery outfitter for over 10 years. They are proud to offer brewhouses, tanks, keg washers, and small parts to brewers across the country as well as equipment for distilling, cider-making, wine-making, and more! They know the ins and outs of the brewing and installation process and can design the perfect set-up for you, whether you're just starting out or looking to expand. Contact them today at [email protected] to discuss your customized brewery needs. ABS Commercial. We are brewers.

Jamie Bogner is the cofounder and editorial director of Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine®. Email him at [email protected].

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