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The Humble Origins of a True French Saison

One of the world’s most respected brewers of dry, rustic farmhouse ales, Daniel Thiriez of Brasserie Thiriez, shares the story of his brewery, his yeast, and their place in the small northern French town of Esquelbecq. As told to Ryan Pachmayer.

Daniel Thiriez Apr 1, 2024 - 13 min read

The Humble Origins of a True French Saison Primary Image

Daniel Thiriez. Photo: Ryan Pachmayer.

I started the brewery in 1996. I was about 35 years old, and I had worked for more than 10 years for a big company in human resources. It was a good job, but I decided to change my life and start my own business. I wanted to be independent, to organize my lifestyle, and to make my own choices.

I visited a few breweries in Belgium. My wife is from Canada, so we also traveled to Canada and the northern United States quite frequently, and I could see that some very small breweries were starting. It was the beginning of the craft revolution, and I thought it was a great idea.

I’m originally from Lille, a big city in northern France. There was a very big brewing tradition here, but at the same time it was kind of a desert. There were very few breweries left; the bigger industrial breweries controlled everything. But I wanted to be in the countryside, using raw and simple ingredients to produce something sophisticated. If I’d been born in Bordeaux, I probably would have made wine instead of beer.

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