Thanksgiving is one of the great culinary holidays on any calendar, and falling as it does in the middle of one of the best seasons for beer, it’s a perfect fit for some discussion of beer pairing! There’s no better time of year for beer and food, in my humble opinion. The cool air, the woodsy aromas of dried leaves, and richly spiced foods all make for a great opportunity to pull out some of your best beers. And then you match that happy condition with Thanksgiving and its aftermath—not only do we have great food, we have way too much of it, which means we’re eating it for several joyous days even after the holiday is over! Today’s post is about identifying some beer styles that match, enhance, or confound that fridge full of fun that you faced this morning.
Turkey, Turkey, Everywhere…
Turkey is the bedrock of most Thanksgiving dinners and forms the bulk of what’s left over. So, what beer to pair with it? Well, it’s a question of format.
Let’s start with the cold turkey sandwich. Perhaps the most common post-meal delivery system, it’s really a question of bread. If you’re serving it on standard white bread, I’d go with a farmhouse ale with some spice, such as Great Divide Colette. The grace notes of spice and citrus will liven up the flavor, and the bit of alcohol warmth will add some contrasting heat.
But if you’re enjoying that leftover turkey on something like a multigrain or rye, then I’m inclined to go with a nice dark lager; the bread’s already offering a lot of grain and maybe some herbs/spice, so I’m thinking texture. The cop-out is Oktoberfest, but by late November those beers are getting a little long in the tooth (no pun intended). Why not find a great doppelbock such as Paulaner Salvator instead? The dark fruit flavors are a great complement, especially if you’re running low on cranberry sauce.
Now, there’s also the hot turkey sandwich—often open-faced and covered in gravy. Here, you’ll need something with some zest to cut through that richness, and for my money, you won’t do much better than a great East Coast IPA. Something in the neighborhood of Dogfish Head’s 60 Minute IPA is an excellent choice because it isn’t overloading you on fruit—instead, there’s a lot of floral and herbal character in addition to the bittering, and it makes for a good palate scrubber.
But what if you’re just left with scraps and bones, so you’ve made soup? Soup is notoriously hard to pair because many of the flavors are so delicate, and in this case, you’re going to want to go simple. The Munich Helles is a great choice, and Victory Brewing’s Helles Lager is a terrific version that you can procure while it’s still relatively fresh and hasn’t had to travel an ocean! The sweet and grainy flavors work well with most any soup.
Ham it Up
If you’re one of those weird families who also serves ham on Thanksgiving, then call me, and we’ll form a support group—I am, too. But for beer pairing advice, it’s a question of whether you’re rocking a honey-baked or a traditional smoked ham. If it’s the former and your ham has a healthy dose of sweetness to it already, you’ll want to balance that with something bitter. Now is the time for those hoppy and bitter West Coast ales: My favorite is Green Flash Hop Head Red. You’ll get some nice caramel flavors, a nose full of pineapple and peach, and plenty of IBUs to counteract that honey sweetness—a match made in heaven. If you’re working with a more traditional smoked ham, maybe with some clove, then a great choice is the Belgian dubbel—maybe from a little place called Allagash in Portland, Maine. The light touch of clove and plum will be a perfect fit.
On the Side
Now for the fun part: the days of casual snacking on the peripheral menu items. You might have only three tablespoons of a dish left, but that shouldn’t stop you from taking your beer pairing seriously. We’re going rapid-fire on this one, so just print this list and stand in front of the fridge.
Stuffing: If it has oysters? Love Oyster Stout from Yards Brewery in Philadelphia is a no-brainer. For more traditional varieties, though, I like Anchor Steam—the herbal hops and caramel work well with the bread and onion!
Baked macaroni and cheese: For this, I love some red fruit and acid to cut through the fat—it’s Rodenbach Grand Cru time. Or, if you’re not willing to pop a 750 ml bottle to snack with, Destihl Flanders Red comes in a handy 12-ounce can, and the sharp sourness will set you up for your next bite.
Corn (creamed or otherwise): Corn’s a weird one because we want to avoid DMS in most beer styles. I tend to go with a Pilsner malt−heavy beer that’s got some natural balancing flavors. Sierra Nevada Nooner Pilsner is a great all-purpose beer, and it’ll work well here, too.
Sweet potatoes: I know they’re sweet, and not Irish, but I still like a nice dry stout with these, especially if I’m adding marshmallow. Some nice, dry roast will balance the sweetness.
Pie, pie, and pie: I don’t really care what the flavor is, if you’re looking down the barrel of that leftover pumpkin, apple, or peach pie, you won’t do much better than an English barleywine. Fellow East Coasters can get their hands on Blithering Idiot from Weyerbacher, and those out West should be able to find Anchor Old Foghorn pretty readily. It’s the caramel and the warming from the alcohols that really sell it. Split a bottle with your better half, curl up by the fire, and enjoy.
The Sad, Lonely, Left Behind Pumpkin Ale
Leftover food paired with beer is one thing. What about pairing food with that leftover pumpkin ale that you thought people would drink more of?
Simple: cook with it. I mean, of course, drink it if you want to, but by now it’s getting on the stale side, and the pumpkin spice season is wrapping up. Beer breads, beer can chickens, cheese sauces, and more will all take the flavors well, and it won’t matter if they’re oxidized or a little on the “older” side. Waste not, want not.
Happy Thanksgiving, everyone, and best wishes for a safe and happy holiday season!