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How British Heritage Malts Are Making a Comeback

In the noble quest for variety and character, British maltsters and brewers have been resurrecting and experimenting with previously vanished yet intensely flavorful heritage barley malts—and they are increasingly available to brewers everywhere.

Matthew Curtis Apr 22, 2024 - 13 min read

How British Heritage Malts Are Making a Comeback Primary Image

Photos: Matthew Curtis

Pitch-black in color and topped with a dense, tan-hued head of foam, unctuous in the way it glides around the inside of your glass when poured, RedWillow Brewery’s Double Heritage Porter has the uncanny ability to capture your imagination before you’ve even taken a sip—but once you do, you’re smitten.

This 8.8 percent ABV beer is resolutely old-school in flavor—no surprise, since it’s based on recipes from the 19th century. Eschewing the sweeter chocolate- or caramel-led character of many contemporary porters, Double Heritage instead focuses on the interplay among dark roast coffee, bitter cacao, and a touch of molasses. A slight astringency dries up the finish and invites you back for another taste. Dispensed from cask via beer engine, this big porter excels—its gentle carbonation and cellar-cool serving temperature allow its depth to shine.

“It’s very malt-centric,” say RedWillow founder and head brewer Toby McKenzie. “It uses a complex base of five different grains, and one shot of Goldings at the top of the boil.”

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