U Fleku, in Prague, Czech Republic, may not be Europe’s oldest brewpub, as it sometimes claims, but is certainly among the most spectacular, with its grand Gothic halls and central courtyard. Its distinctive dark lager adds to the overall impression of stepping back into a distant age.
U Fleku was founded in 1499 by Vit Skremenec, a malt house owner who began to brew his own beer in former monastic buildings. The rambling tavern on Kremencova Street was bought in the 18th century by Jakub and Dorota Flekovskymi and is still named after their shortened surname today. When the communists came to power, U Fleku was nationalized, but after the restoration of democracy it was returned to the previous owners in 1991, the Brtnik family.
The small brewhouse, renewed in the 1980s with copper kettles, has a yearly capacity of 6,000 hl to brew the house beer. Four malts are used and three lots of Žatec (Saaz) hops are added during the copper boil before it is cooled in a large open pan and then fermented in traditional oak vats with yeast from Budweiser Budvar. The 13 degree black lager Flekovsky Tmavy Lezak has a fruity–malty, spicy character, beneath a dense tawny head. It is the only beer U Fleku serves.
Today tourists flock through the entrance beneath the striking clock to see the elaborate wood paneling, stained glass, and murals—and to try the unique beer and traditional Czech food. U Fleku also has a brewery museum in the former malt house, displaying old brewing instruments and drinking vessels.