Get Lost in São Paulo's Frangó

From our Love Handles files on beer bars we love: Stephen Beaumont takes us to Brazil’s classy, labyrinthine chapel of interesting beer and atmosphere.

Stephen Beaumont Dec 4, 2022 - 2 min read

Get Lost in São Paulo's Frangó Primary Image

Photo: Stephen Beaumont

What it is: One of the world’s most exciting young beer cultures is that of Brazil, with more than 1,200 breweries, two national beer styles, and an impressive dynamism that has thrived even during the pandemic. But before there was any of that, there was Frangó, a splendid and expansive beer bar set behind a modest façade in the Freguesia do Ó neighborhood of São Paulo. For Brazilian craft brewers, appearing on tap at Frangó has for years been synonymous with coming of age as a recognized and established brewing concern.

Why it’s great: Unless tables are set out front during São Paulo’s often-sweltering summer months, you could easily walk past Frangó unaware that one of Brazil’s finest bars lies within. For those willing to cross its threshold, a remarkable warren of rooms, nooks, and crannies awaits, even before you locate the stairway that leads to the cavernous basement. Throughout, glass-fronted fridges reveal treasure troves of the best of Brazilian and imported beer, including bottles that would be hard to find even in parts of the United States, while a single kitchen turns out creatively delicious dishes—including coxinhas, the delectable chicken (frango, in Portuguese) fritters that are the bar’s signature snack.

Hours: Noon–4 p.m. & 5:30 p.m.–9:30 p.m., Tuesday–Friday; Noon–8 p.m., Saturday; Noon–6:30 p.m., Sunday; closed Monday
Address: Largo da Matriz de Nossa Senhora do Ó, 168, Freguesia do Ó, São Paulo, Brazil