The mental image evoked by saison’s story provokes thirst: In Wallonia, the French-speaking part of Belgium, farmers and their crew would refresh themselves after a long day’s work with a glass or two of this rustic brew.
Saison probably varied greatly, depending on local ingredients and yeast—which often would have been borrowed from or shared with the neighbors, evolving over time. Effervescent, at times acidic or spicy, its purpose was to quench.
I’ve heard that some Belgian brewers like to thank American drinkers and brewers for not letting this wonderful style die. I’m skeptical about this—my own travels to Wallonia showed me that saison is alive and well, and just as delicious as ever.