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Exploring the Most Brewery Rich Region in the World

Decoction mashing and patient lagering remain the norm across Upper Franconia, as they do in nearby Czechia—the two places in the world most famed for their attractive, flavorful lagers. Our correspondent takes a deep dive into the region.

Joe Stange Nov 1, 2018 - 19 min read

Exploring the Most Brewery Rich Region in the World Primary Image

Photo by Joe Stange

The hill that is the beating heart of Hallerndorf is called the Kreuzberg. Walkable from five different villages, the hilltop features three large beer gardens, a brewery, and a church. At the base of the hill is another large beer garden connected to another brewery. The villages themselves feature more beer gardens and more breweries.

This is Upper Franconia, after all. Beer is daily life around here.

One of those nearby villages is Schnaid, home to about 300 people. It’s also the home to the old Friedel brewhouse, now put to use by the Gänstaller family—chiefly Brewmaster Andreas Gänstaller and his daughter, Daniela, also a brewer. The lower part of the building is more than two centuries old. From the upper floors—built just after World War II—you can see the Kreuzberg out the window.

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