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Brewing Saison: The Taste of Rustic

Whether they’re working in farmhouses or warehouses, today’s saison brewers are united in their pursuit of rustic character. While that goal is abstract, they achieve it via concrete choices about ingredients and process—and the ways to get there are as varied as the brewers and beers themselves.

Kate Bernot Mar 11, 2024 - 15 min read

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Photo: Matt Graves/mgravesphoto.com

Earlier this year, Ale Apothecary cofounder Paul Arney was drinking beers from Funky Fauna Artisan Ales, a brewery in Sisters, Oregon, at an event that both breweries attended. Funky Fauna brewer Michael Frith had labeled one of these beers, Edwin, as a saison—but Arney was struggling to comprehend it as such.

“How is he calling these saisons?” Arney asked himself.

“Saison Dupont, my gosh, I love that beer so much,” Arney says. “So, I think when I heard the word ‘saison’ and went to drink it, I was expecting that phenolicky yeast-and-ester component. I was pigeonholing it like someone going into BJCP certification.

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