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The American Grain: Elevating Heirloom Corn

Corn has long held an important place in brewing across the Americas, from chicha in the Andes to Mexican and American adjunct lagers. Today, craft maltsters and brewers are seeking more flavorful heirloom varieties to see how far they can push those flavors.

David Nilsen Dec 11, 2023 - 11 min read

The American Grain: Elevating Heirloom Corn Primary Image

Photo: Matt Graves/mgravesphoto.com

When it comes to corn in beer, we tend to think of it as little more than a highly fermentable adjunct—especially for lightening the body of an easy-drinking lager. However, after decades of being (unfairly) looked down upon, corn has lately been getting a fresh look from craft brewers.

For others, corn’s reputation never needed saving in the first place.

Shyla Sheppard is founder of Bow & Arrow Brewing in Albuquerque, New Mexico. For her, a connection to corn goes deeper than brewing, to a relationship rooted in cultural and familial memory. Sheppard is Native American, and she recalls her grandmother in North Dakota making a traditional corn ball with kernels she had parched and ground herself. It’s only natural that Sheppard would use this ingredient in her brewing.

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