This might be the best time—and the worst possible time—to try to get Ukrainian golden ale more widely recognized as an established beer style.
Everything Ukraine-related has gotten a lot of traction since Russia’s invasion. But, believe me, I’d give everything just to stubbornly push the style’s cause without it getting swept into the limelight by a widespread wave of compassion. Getting people to support the style out of pity, just because of Russia’s war in Ukraine—that’s the last thing we need. Such support is as heartbreaking as it is heartwarming, but nobody in Ukraine’s brewing scene wants to ride on sentiments—especially since we got this unofficial movement going months before shells began raining down on my home city.
Besides, there are many cases of mislabeling the Ukrainian golden ale style. Hundreds of breweries worldwide are releasing beers brewed in solidarity with Ukraine, including the famous Pravda Brewery in Lviv. Its Putin Huylo—translation: “Putin is a Dickhead”—is technically a Belgian-style golden strong ale. However, since Pravda is a Ukrainian brewery, many have mistaken Putin Huylo for a Ukrainian golden ale, an idea further spread by local and international media. It’s a fine beer and serves a great purpose; it’s just not in the style that we’re trying to promote.